LUMIÈRE ORVE
Quoted the way jewellery should be quoted
At the bench since 1994

Quoted the way jewellery should be quoted

Metal weight, stone weight and making charge on every ticket, separately. Made on the premises in Gopalapuram — you can watch it happen.

01/03

The number that matters on a ticket

Our making charge, fixed and printed, where the trade norm is a percentage of the metal value.

8%
Making charge, flat — not 14 to 25 per cent of metal value

Our signature pieces

Four ways through the case. The last is the one most people actually come for.

The pieces we remake most often

Jhumkas, thin bangles and the plain solitaire setting. These are the only designs we repeat, and we repeat them because people keep asking rather than because they carry the best margin.

The pieces we remake most often
The bench

Made here, by two people whose names are on the ticket

Everything sold under this name is made on the first floor of this building by Suresh and Vinod, who have been at that bench for twenty-six and nineteen years. Nothing is bought in and resold, which sounds like a low bar and is not — most of what is sold as an atelier’s own work in this city is trade-made and marked up. The making charge is eight per cent, flat and printed, where the norm is fourteen to twenty-five per cent of the metal value, which quietly rises every time gold does.

Metal weight, stone weight and making charge itemisedMaking charge flat at 8%, not a percentage of goldHallmarked, and the HUID on the invoiceBuy-back at the day’s rate less 2%, in writing
Made here, by two people whose names are on the ticket

A commission, start to finish

Six to ten weeks. You see it twice before it is finished.

1

Conversation and drawing

An hour at the bench, a hand drawing and a written quotation itemising metal, stones and making. No charge, and roughly one in four does not proceed past it.

2

Wax and approval

A carved wax you hold and turn over. Changes here cost nothing; changes after casting cost a great deal, which is why this stage is not skipped even when a client is in a hurry.

3

Casting and setting

Cast, filed and set on the premises. Stones are shown to you loose, under a loupe, before they go in — with the certificate for anything above thirty points.

4

Finishing and hallmark

Polished, hallmarked and the HUID recorded on your invoice. The invoice repeats the weights from the quotation so the two can be compared.

From the tray

Recent pieces, most of them one-offs.

Buying, and what to ask anyone selling you gold

The first two questions are the ones that decide the price.

What is a making charge and why does yours differ?

It is the labour, and the trade almost always quotes it as a percentage of the metal value — so it rises every time gold does, for the same work. Ours is a flat eight per cent, printed on the quotation. Ask any jeweller for theirs as a rupee figure rather than a percentage and watch what happens.

Will you buy it back?

Yes, at the day’s gold rate less two per cent, in writing on the invoice. We do not buy back stones at what you paid, and nobody honestly does — a stone sells at trade value on return, which is typically forty to sixty per cent of retail. That is worth knowing before you buy rather than when you sell.

Is everything hallmarked?

Everything above two grams, with the HUID recorded on your invoice so it can be checked against the BIS register. Anything below that is stamped and stated as unhallmarked on the ticket.

Do I need an appointment?

Not to browse. For a commission or anything above about two lakh, yes — the tray comes out of the safe and one of the goldsmiths sits with you, and neither happens on a walk-in Saturday.